Martin Margiela in San Francisco

John Gallianos work for the Martin Margiela label is on display in San Francisco in a historic Frank Lloyd Wright building, Maison Margiela at 134 Maiden Lane. Interiors designed by the Margiela team for the two-story, 2,900 square foot space are in typical Margiela surrealist style. Optical illusions, or trompe l’oeil, as they say in France, upside down hangers, backwards pictures in a palette of mostly black and white with a red lips sofa by Bocca, similar to the original design bySalvadore Dali. Shoppers can find men’s and women’s ready-to-wear and runway collections, bags, jewelry, shoes and fragrance.

n the 1980s, Belgian designer Martin Margiela helped set the groundwork for limitless possibilities in fashion design by introducing a style concept known as deconstruction. His clothes challenged many a discerning eye with inside-out seams, extraordinarily long arms and the use of bizarre materials such as canvas and wigs.

The House of Martin Margiela launched in 1989, its clothing labels recognized by a discreet trademark consisting of a piece of cloth with numbers 0-23. Margiela preferred to remain relatively unknown as his clothes gained popularity; he was rarely seen in public and all media contact came through outside sources – think faxes and phone calls with personal assistants. His unabashed socially reclusive behavior paired with his undeniable talent set Margiela apart and led to a greater fashion following for the brand.

In October 2009, Maison Margiela, the company, became in name only, as the designer disappeared from the creative process and left his design team to pick up the pieces. They staged silent marches in Paris and San Francisco to launch a brand collaboration with H&M in November 2012. In October 2014, British designer John Galliano, removed from the helm at Givenchy for anti-semitic remarks, became Maison Margiela’s creative director, and promised to bring the brand full circle in design genius.

Galliano is known for his rather triumphant approach to fashion and he spares no expense with his most recent collections. Raw edges, incorporation of metals, lab coats with matching latex gloves and elaborate headpieces are finding their way back into the newest collections, turning what was Margiela into a reality once more. For women there are hand painted pieces, daisy skirts, kimonos, daisy rings and earrings so large they speak for you. For men, avant-garde silk printed button down shirts with billowy, scarf-like sleeves.

The grand opening celebration for Maison Margiela San Francisco on April 23, 2015, was hosted bySabrina Buell, Yves Béhar, Alicia Engstrom and Hosain Rahman in honor of the Wattis Institute for Contemporary Arts at California College of the Arts.


Originally published for Red Carpet Bay Area on May 17, 2015.

Festival Style: What to Wear to BottleRock and Outside Lands

Headed to BottleRock and Outside Lands this summer? If you're anything like us (and of course you are!), you've been planning your festival look for months. Here, San Francisco expert wardrobe stylist Mary Gonsalves Kinney tells us what she's packing for Napa come May 29.

Look 1: Tribal Quest

Mary says: "Pretty in prints, but still ready to rock out."  

// Kenzo dress ($755); Yigal Azrouel scarf ($385); Designs by Alina pearl earrings ($400) and leather-and-diamond bracelets ($450-$650); Giada Forte clutch ($286); and Illesteva sunglasses ($290); all at Elizabeth Charles (Lower Pac Heights), elizabeth-charles.com

Look 2: Hootie and the Boho

Mary says: "A little boho-chic never hurt anyone."  

// Stevie Howell print tunic ($395) at steviehowell.com; Charlene Court Designs silk braided teardrop necklace ($3,500) and Isabel Marant dicker bootie ($635), both at Elizabeth Charles (Lower Pac Heights), elizabeth-charles.com; “What a Hoot” handbag ($258) at Mary Frances Accessories (Lafayette), maryfrances.com.

Look 3: A Little Bit Country

Mary says: "Sweet but chic, effortless but eccentric. "  

// Vintage silk skirt and top ($195); Mimi London leather box bag ($395); African sequin disc necklaces ($28 each); and silvertone arc necklaces ($45 each); all available at Eden & Eden (Jackson Square), edenandeden.com

Look 4: A Little Bit Rock 'n' Roll

Mary says: "You just can't go wrong with tan easy breezy jumpsuit and a moto jacket over it. We're not even plaid about it."  

// Azalea strapless jumpsuit ($89); Neuw Denim leather jacket ($659); Komono sunglasses ($60); Olive & Pique hat ($48); Pamela Love crescent moon ring ($190), silver star/moon collar ($250), and lariats ($190-275); Vanessa Mooney earrings ($87); AK Vintage gold necklace ($82); Lauren Wolf star ring ($64) and spikey ring ($97); Stone Unearthen rings ($106); Faris circular bracelet ($195); Fay Andrada thin gold bracelets ($129/set of three); Soko gold collar ($81) and cuff ($58); and Circadian Studios cuffs in gold ($122), rose gold ($124), and brass ($38); all available at Azalea (Hayes Valley), azaleasf.com.

Originally published for 7x7 on May 15, 2015.

The Battle for the Best Denim

We can’t wear red carpet gowns all the time, yet we want to look red carpet stylish everyday. To that end, we asked celebrity wardrobe stylist Mary Gonsalves Kinney to weigh in on the best denim around, right now. The advice:

Which are the best jeans out there? I get asked this loaded question all the time. First of all, there is not one jean that works for all women. If that were true, you wouldn’t need my advice. The most important thing to do is to try as many designs, washes and brands as you can. I am in the business of telling the fashion truth so I will do my best not to steer you astray in the Battle for the Best Denim.

If you are tall, lean and long in the torso, you can get away with wearing Stella McCartney’s high waist, wide-leg jean. The cuff of the jean hits the ground with a grand throwback, ’70s inspiration that makes me swoon. Super euro chic, this jean can be dressed up or down. My suggestion: wear it like Stella would with a matching denim shirt or a boy blazer. Victoria Beckham makes a similar style with front pockets and button details that are so cute I could kiss them.

Frame Denim is one of my favorite brands for various reasons, but most importantly because of the stretch each pair provides and the variety in washes and colors. They look good on most of my clients, particularly the designs that taper at the ankle allowing for boots, booties or stilettos; shorter skinny versions available for the spring and summer. Of course, they also have wide-leg and boyfriend options. If you are feeling particularly saucy, give their distressed skinny denim a try in black or gray. They’re sexy and a little rock ‘n roll.

 

Mother denim is another great option for those looking to tuck and accentuate. I like to call it the Mother ship of denim since the company took the lead in curating an on-trend jean that was well made with thick fabric and in flattering styles. It was no surprise to me that in February 2015 Mother chose bombshell Candice Swanepoel to collaborate and create her own capsule collection for the brand. You know when a Victoria’s Secret Angel takes to designing she will cater to your curves. Plus, it’s 90s inspired, which makes it so very on trend. Please don’t stop with Candice’s designs, try them all, you will thank me.

Finally, I find that Current Elliott and J Brand can both come in and clinch the win when nothing seems to fit right. If you have wider hips or a shorter torso, these brands seem to have your number. Makes sense, considering Emily Current and Merritt Elliott started as wardrobe stylists. They know the female body and they make a boyfriend jean that knows it, too. J Brand is one ofKate Middleton‘s favorites and you know she has tried them all! Easy to wear, great stretch and more conservative, J Brand also provides a dressier jean option for the woman who wants a cleaner look.

 

There you have it – the arsenal you need to lock it down and win the endless denim battle. So, go on, get your jean on and if you need a second opinion, you know where to find me.

Originally Published for Red Carpet Bay Area on April 22, 2015.